Cuba

  • About Cuba

    When most people think of vacationing in Cuba, they immediately think of the resorts. I have visited Varadero before and I must say the beaches are stunning: soft white sand and calm waters. It was the first time we did a “package” where the flight and hotel were included and the hotel was an “all-inclusive”. I totally understand why some people love this type of trip but for me, I don’t like when I can’t roam around and explore local sites, sample the food and get to know the people.

    For this trip, we decided to go to Havana and then Trinidad, a colonial town about 4 hours south of Havana. We absolutely loved both and they very much complemented each other. They were a photographers dream!!!

    Cuba is a communist country and you are reminded of this throughout the day. Things are a bit harder to make happen (ie: organizing a tour, making a reservation, getting access to the internet) but as long as you give yourself time and stay calm, trust that things will eventually work out.

    Here are some tips:

    -bring school supplies for local kids

    -supposedly at customs upon entering the country you may need to show proof of travel insurance and that you have $20/day

    -you will get your Tourist Card on the plane (the visa essentially is included in the plane ticket) and this is what you need to show at customs

    -bring cash (not many ATMs outside of Havana); make sure the notes are in good condition (no rips)

    -exchange $ at airport in Havana; best place in country is bank or Cadeca (casa de cambio); need passport to exchange $

    -Santeria is a type of religion that some locals practice -try to see if you can attend a ceremony when you are there

    -buy phone card (Etecsa) for $5 CUC for 1 hr of internet; valid for 30 days after 1stuse; get on street or at Iberstar Hotel

    -need someone “on the ground” to help (there are ALWAYS issues so ask your network if anyone has a relationship with a Cuban)

    -havanacasaparticular.com (booked Casa and car from airport and to Trinidad with them; from airport $40 CUC and to Trinidad $260 CUC)

    -even though we prebooked our car travel, for the leg from Trinidad back to Havana, we just found a local taxi driver and he gave us a great rate – in the future I would only do it this way (you can see the car beforehand and negotiate a good price)

    -having said that, these were recommended on the web

     

  • Eat / Play / Shop

    Havana

    Art:

    -331 Art Space

    -La Fabrica de Arte Cubano ‪(laboratory for interdisciplinary creation that presents the best of contemporary art in Cuba)

    -Callejon de Hamel (outdoor art project; filled with lively, colorful murals and sculptures made from bathtubs, hand pumps, and pinwheels)

    -Fusterlandia (public-art installations by local artist José Fuster, with colorful, whimsical mosaics)

     

    Tours:

    -Cigar factory tour (Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagas)

    -Bus tour Hop On and Off)

     

    Food:

    -Recommended from New York Times: El cocinero, Rio Mar, Bar Sia Kara

    -Recommended from Timeout: Le Chansonnier; Espacios

    -La Bodeguita del Medio (Hemingway’s fave resto; touristy)

    -Café Laurent (it’s a parador in someone’s apartment; fun experience and the food was good for Cuba)

    -Café Paris (great to smoke cigars, play dominos and listen to jazz; we spent hours there)

    -Paladar Dona Eutemia

    -La Guarida (didn’t eat there but heard it’s great)

    -Here is a link to a great list of restaurants from Rough Guides

    Things to See:

    -Many great Plazas: Plaza Vieja; Plaza de la Catedral; Plaza de Armas (lots of vendors selling stuff; we got awesome posters of old Cuban films); Plaza de San Francisco de Asis

    -walk on Mercaderes to Plaza Vieja

    -El Malecon (best at sunset; found it pretty uninspiring)

    -Necropolis de Cristobol Colon (we are fans of cemetaries and this was a great one)

    -Castillo El Morro (fortress; never went but saw it from the distance)

    -Paseo del Prado (wide blvd; tree lines; connects Parque Central to sea)

    -Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabana(nice for sunset; 9 pm ceremony: El Canonazo de las Nueve)

    -Baseball Estadio Latinoamericano (good idea to see if there is a game in town; Cubans are amazing players)

    -try to see the Tropicana Cabaret (we were with young kids so couldn’t go but it’s a classic thing to do)

     

    Museums:

    -Museo de la Revolucion

    Museo del Chocolate (nice to go and have a break; sit in the restaurant and sample the sweets)

    Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

    Museo del Automovil

     

    Trinidad

    Things to See:

    -Playa Ancon (hotels own beaches but can pay for chairs; ride bike there via La Boca; personally the beaches were not my style -if I wanted beach I would go to Varadero -but when travelling through the interior of Cuba it was nice to have a lounging day)

    -Cayo Blanco (catamaran to white beaches; snorkelling)

    -Parque de Cubano (rent horses for the day with a guide; had a great lunch on the way to a lovely waterfall – nothing too grand but nice to get wet after riding for an hour)

    -Topes de Collantes (Sierra del Escambray; hike to Salto del Caburni waterfall; the Lonely Planet recommends going with a guide from Gaviota Tours 53 42 540117; the water is like a tourist soup!)

    -El Nicho (this was a great pitstop on our way back from Trinidad to Havana)

     

    Food:

    -La Botija

    -Restaurante La Ceiba (amazing tree in the middle of the patio)

    -Palador San Jose

    -Palado Sol y Son

    -Resto El Rintintin (sunset)

    -good website for recommendations: http://www.cuba-junky.com/sancti-spiritus/restaurant.htm

  • Itinerary

    Itinerary

     

    March 14      

    -Fly to Havana (arrive at noon); explore the city

    -Search the web for “Casa Particular” to stay at (I like starting with Booking.com)

    March 15      

    -Explore Havana

    March 16      

    -Head to Trinidad (approx. 4 hours by car)

    -Stay at Casa Colonial

    -Explore area

    March 20

    -Head back to Havana

    -Places to visit on way from Trinidad:

    • Cienfuego (1.5 hr to Trinidad)
    • Laguna Guanaroca (near Cienfuego; paddle boat through mangrove then lake to see flamingos);
    • Bay of Pigs (snorkelling on Playa Larga and Giron)
    • Cienga de Zapata = wildlife
    • El Nicho

    March 21

    -Fly back to Toronto